Basic Definition

Tacking or tag pinning is a permanent wrinkling effect of both the fabric and the dye or simply the dye, depending on what step in the process the the tacking pins used for the effect are removed. Popular areas for this effect are the waistband, pocket corners both front and back, and bottom hems, though the effect could be used anywhere.
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How It’s Done

The jeans are folded back and forth anywhere from two to five times and then secured with tag pins (similar to the ones used to put those plastic security tags through clothes) at the points where the tacking effect is supposed to be achieved. The jeans are put in a washer where the dye tacks and folds become set. If the tag pins are removed before the jeans are dried than the folds will come out and the tacking effect will be limited to the dye. If the tag pins stay in during drying then the folded texture will be permanent as well.
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History

Tacking is one of the many denim finishes pioneered in the last 20 years to create new and interesting takes on the classic blue jean.
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See Also

Photo courtesy of Denim Help
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